Nancy’s London Bridge: The New Bar Review

Up enough stairs to make you feel like Po in Kung Fu Panda, especially in this heat, lies Nancy’s. 

The new London Bridge cocktail bar looks towards the Shard and the station from the fourth floor of Colechurch House, a 1973 Brutalist block that gives little warning of the leopard-print party waiting inside. 

Nancy’s is red velvet, disco balls and low lighting. It feels like entering a nightclub from Grand Theft Auto, in a good way.

The Door Test: Pass, eventually

The staircase is an enemy of pleasure. Still, once your lungs have returned and you’ve regretted every cigarette, every damn one, Nancy’s makes an excellent first impression. The room has character without looking like a 1970s theme bar assembled from three Pinterest boards. There are views, comfortable sofas, a tiger-print pool table and enough distinct areas for dates, post-work drinks and competitive cue waving. The tables can later be cleared for dancing. Hell yeah.

The Drinks Test: Nearly there

Nancy’s has a strong market-to-glass concept. Ten signature cocktails draw inspiration from, and use ingredients sourced from, its friendly neighbourhood Borough Market traders, including a Dirty Martini made with blended olive brines, Oloroso sherry, and vodka, and Queen’s Walk, inspired by Humble Crumble’s blueberry pudding. It’s called Nancy’s Filthy Martini, and plays right into the current trend of making the Martini go full Christina Aguilera circa 2002. It actually looks a little like Thames water, to be honest. If you like them dirrty, you’ll love it.

The ANKO, made with Toki whisky, gochujang, and spiced carrot, takes its cue from Southeast Asian food stall Raya. Spicy, gently sweet, and pleasantly savoury, it had enough weight to feel substantial without leaning on the usual creaminess. That was my highlight. Overall, the ambition is obvious, but some drinks tasted muddled rather than layered, with several clever ingredients competing at once. It’s a new bar in the teething process, but the scope is good, and there are a few signatures that I think will go the distance.

The Hospitality Test: Needs clearer communication

Nancy’s wants serious drinks without the atmosphere of a practical exam, and the room largely achieves that. Head bartender Martha May Markham and general manager Max Wolff both arrive with serious cocktail-bar experience. Early signs are that the team are friendly, informed, and good advocates for their bar. 

But hospitality includes making people confident about what they are ordering. A vegan friend of mine ordered a drink that was garnished with gelatine, only to discover the cocktail itself was a milk punch. There was no information on the menu that suggested either of those things. Guests should not need to conduct inquests before ordering. A good menu needs clearer allergen and dietary guidance. Dietary clarity is not a footnote.

The Good-Time Test: An emphatic pass

This is where Nancy’s really earns its keep. It stays open until 2am from Thursday to Saturday, with DJs, dancing and pool, and works for anything from a quick drink before the train to a night that ends considerably less responsibly. It is glamorous without being precious and lively without immediately shouting in your face. London, fuck it, everywhere could use more cocktail bars like this.

The Steal This Test: Roll the dice

We’ve seen Martini trolleys, but a full-time Negroni cart isn’t anywhere near as common (examples in the comments if you know any) and sounds like it could be the smartest idea in the room. The Lady Luck Negroni cart wasn’t ready during either of my visits, so I haven’t seen it in person, but I understand it will roam between tables carrying six riffs, with guests rolling a die to decide which one they receive. That creates theatre and interaction without the lengthy tableside construction that can turn a drinks trolley into a rail replacement service. The six variations also offer a real window into the drink itself and how many sides it has. Very cool.

Verdict: Worth the Detour

Nancy’s does enough well to earn the detour. The room, energy and Negroni cart give it a reason to exist beyond being another polished London cocktail bar. The drinks programme needs a little editing, but there’s more than enough beyond the glass to make it worth your while as it finds its feet. Go for the view, stay for a game of pool, end up getting dragged onto the dance floor at 1am. Fuck, I want to go now. Anyone up for a drink?

Nancy’s: Fourth floor, Colechurch House, London Bridge Walk, SE1 2SX. Open Tuesday to Sunday, until 2am Thursday to Saturday.

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